Amsterdam is smaller than it feels on a map and more beautiful than most photographs suggest. The canal ring — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — is a 17th-century feat of hydraulic engineering and urban planning that produced some of the most consistently handsome streets in Europe. The city's museums are exceptional and numerous. The food scene has improved beyond recognition in the last decade. And the cycling infrastructure, which makes every other European city feel improvised, gives Amsterdam an accessibility and a pace that suits short breaks particularly well.
Where to Stay
The canal ring (Herengracht, Keizersgracht, Prinsengracht) is the most atmospheric area to sleep. Pulitzer Amsterdam (25 connected 17th-century canal houses; extraordinary building) is the definitive canal hotel. Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht is the contemporary luxury option. The Dylan Amsterdam is smaller and more discreet. Mid-range: Hotel V Nesplein (De Pijp), The Hoxton Amsterdam (Herengracht). Book Amsterdam skip-the-line museum tickets and canal tours in advance.
The Museums
Rijksmuseum is essential — book timed entry online; the Rembrandt rooms and the Vermeer gallery are among the finest museum experiences in the world. Van Gogh Museum — the largest collection of Van Gogh in the world; book online, tickets sell out days ahead. Stedelijk Museum (modern and contemporary art) is consistently underrated and rarely crowded. Anne Frank House — book online at exactly 8am 8 weeks before your visit date; tickets release then and sell out quickly. Hermitage on the Amstel has reinvented itself post-Russia as a Dutch-focused collection worth seeing.
Jordaan & Beyond
The Jordaan district west of the main canal ring is Amsterdam's finest neighbourhood — former working-class, now the city's most desirable address. Explore on foot: the Bloemgracht (flower canal) is the most beautiful of the smaller canals; the Noordermarkt on Saturday is the most authentic Amsterdam market experience; the cafés (brown cafés — bruine kroegen) are the social institution the Dutch have perfected over three centuries.
Where to Eat
- Restaurant De Kas — farm-to-table in a 1926 greenhouse in Frankendael Park; the most beautiful dining room in Amsterdam
- Breda (Jordaan) — the best contemporary Dutch cooking; the lunch menu is exceptional value
- Bakers & Roasters (De Pijp) — the best brunch in the city; queue from 9am on weekends
- Café de Sluyswacht — the oldest café in Amsterdam on the Oudeschans canal; herring and beer by the lock
- Foodhallen (Oud-West) — the food market in a converted tram depot; 20 stalls, excellent variety, good for a quick dinner
Tips Most Guides Miss
- Hire a bicycle on day one — the OV-fiets bike share or any rental shop; the city makes complete sense from a saddle and complete nonsense in a car
- The De Pijp neighbourhood (south of the museum district) is where Amsterdam residents actually eat and drink — the Albert Cuyp market on weekday mornings is excellent
- Canal boat tours vary wildly — skip the giant party boats; the small private canal tours are far better and book up
- The Red Light District is best understood as a walk-through, not a destination; the Zeedijk area north of it has better bars and restaurants
- Amsterdam's museum queues are unmanageable without pre-booking; book everything online before you arrive
