Prague's architectural coherence is the product of a particular historical luck: it was not significantly bombed in World War Two, and Communist-era development largely bypassed the historic core. The result is a city with intact medieval streets, Baroque churches, Art Nouveau facades and Cubist buildings that most of Europe sacrificed to the 20th century. It is also — relative to comparable Western European capitals — still meaningfully affordable, which makes it the most accessible luxury city break in Europe for UK visitors.

Where to Stay

Malá Strana (Lesser Town, below the castle) is the most atmospheric area — cobblestone streets, Baroque palaces, the best restaurant-bars. Augustine, a Luxury Collection Hotel (in a converted 13th-century monastery) is Prague's most characterful luxury hotel. Aria Hotel Prague on Tržiště is smaller and music-themed, with a rooftop bar above the Baroque roofline. Mid-range: Hotel Josef (Old Town; minimalist Eva Jiřičná design), The Icon Hotel & Lounge (New Town). Book Prague castle tours, food experiences & river cruises.

Prague Castle

The castle complex is the largest ancient castle in the world by area — a city within the city. The essential elements: St Vitus Cathedral (Gothic; the medieval stained glass is extraordinary; the Alfons Mucha window is in the north nave), Old Royal Palace (Vladislav Hall with the late-Gothic vaulting), St George's Basilica (the most intact Romanesque interior in Bohemia), and Golden Lane (the row of tiny 16th-century houses built into the castle wall; Kafka lived in one). The castle views over the city are the best in Prague. Book tickets at the castle gates or online; early morning is significantly quieter.

Old Town & Beyond

Old Town Square and the Astronomical Clock are worth seeing once — but the clock itself is disappointingly small; the square is surrounded by tourist infrastructure. The real Old Town is one street back: Celetná, Melantrichova, the Tyn courtyard. Josefov (the former Jewish Quarter) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with six surviving synagogues and the Jewish Cemetery — the most moving cultural experience in Prague. Vinohrady and Žižkov are the local neighbourhoods worth exploring for restaurants and bars.

Czech Food & Beer

  • Field Restaurant (Old Town) — the best fine dining in Prague; modern Czech cuisine, one Michelin star
  • La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise — the flagship tasting menu restaurant; historical Czech recipes reimagined
  • Café Savoy (Malá Strana) — the most beautiful café interior in Prague; excellent schnitzel and cake
  • Lokál (multiple locations) — the definitive Czech pub experience; tank-conditioned Pilsner Urquell, excellent svíčková
  • Czech food to try: svíčková (beef sirloin with cream sauce), svičková, roast duck with red cabbage and bread dumplings, trdelník (chimney cake — better from a bakery than a street stand)

Tips Most Guides Miss

  • Cross Charles Bridge before 7:30am or after 9pm — at midday it is one of Europe's most crowded pedestrian spaces
  • Vinohrady is the residential neighbourhood where Prague's middle class actually eats; far better food at half the Old Town price
  • Prague's beer is best served from a tank pub (tank čepované pivo) — Lokál is the most reliable chain; the difference from bottled is significant
  • The Czech koruna (CZK) is the currency — euro is not accepted in most places, which keeps prices lower than eurozone cities
  • Vyšehrad fortress (south of the centre) has better views than the castle and almost no queues