Bacalhau à Brás
Salt Cod with Eggs and Matchstick Potatoes
Lisbon's favourite way with salt cod looks like a mistake the first time you see it: a soft yellow heap, somewhere between scrambled eggs and a potato hash. Shreds of cod, sweet onion and matchstick potatoes are bound with egg that is only just set. Everything depends on the last ninety seconds, when the eggs go in. Take the pan off the heat while it still looks slightly too loose.
The origin is not documented. The dish is said to have been created in the second half of the nineteenth century in the Bairro Alto, Lisbon's old tavern quarter, by a cook or tavern keeper named Brás, and you will also see it written Braz. No more than that can be said with confidence.
The method has outlived the mystery. "À Brás" now describes anything shredded and bound with egg and fried potato in the same way, and Lisbon menus offer it with chicken, leeks and other vegetables.
Ingredients
For the cod
- 400 g dried salt cod
For the potatoes
- 500 g potatoes (Maris Piper), peeled
- 500 ml sunflower oil, for frying
To finish
- 60 ml olive oil (4 tbsp)
- 2 medium onions (about 300 g), halved and thinly sliced
- 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 1 bay leaf
- 6 large eggs
- 15 g flat-leaf parsley, chopped
- 12 to 16 black olives
- Freshly ground black pepper
Method
- Soak the cod Put the cod in a large bowl, skin side up, cover with plenty of cold water and keep it in the fridge for 24 to 48 hours, depending on thickness, changing the water three or four times.
- Poach and shred Cover the cod with fresh cold water, bring to a bare simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Drain. When cool enough to handle, discard the skin and bones and pull the flesh into small shreds.
- Cut the potatoes Cut the potatoes into matchsticks about 3 mm thick and 5 cm long. Rinse in cold water until it runs clear, then dry them very thoroughly in a tea towel.
- Fry the potatoes Heat the sunflower oil to 170°C in a deep pan, no more than a third full. Fry the potatoes in three batches for 4 to 5 minutes each, until pale gold and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper. Do not salt them.
- Cook the onions Heat the olive oil in a wide, deep frying pan over a medium-low heat. Add the onions and bay leaf and cook for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring, until soft and pale gold. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute.
- Add cod and potatoes Stir in the cod and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until it has taken up the oil. Add the potatoes and toss everything together.
- Add the eggs Beat the eggs with plenty of pepper. Turn the heat to low. Pour the eggs over and stir constantly with a spatula for 1 to 2 minutes, until they thicken into a creamy coating that just holds together. It should still look glossy and slightly loose. Take the pan off the heat at that point: the eggs carry on cooking.
- Serve Remove the bay leaf. Scatter with parsley and olives and serve immediately.
Food safety
The eggs are only lightly set. In the UK, eggs with the British Lion mark are considered safe to eat this way by everyone, including pregnant women, young children and older people. Anyone who is severely immunocompromised should have the eggs cooked until firm.
Taste before you season. Even well-soaked cod usually carries enough salt for the whole dish.
If the eggs set firm, the dish becomes a dry omelette. Stop early. Residual heat does the rest.
Have the plates warm and the people seated. This does not wait.